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Around Ha Tien


Mui Nai
The beaches in this part of Vietnam face the Gulf of Thailand. The water is pretty warm and becalmed; It’s great  for bathing and diving but  hopeless for surfing. The best of them, Mui Nai (Stag’s Head Peninsula; admission person/car 2500/10,000d), supposedly resembling the head of a stag with its mouth pointing upward, is 8km west of Ha Tien. On top is a lighthouse and there are many beaches  on both sides of the peninsula, lined with simple restaurants and guesthouses.
There is  no public transport to  the beach. A xe om here should set you back around 40,000d.


Hon Giang & Nghe Islands
There are some  islands along this coast and some  locals make a living gathering swiftlet nests (the most important ingredient of that famous Chinese delicacy, bird’s-nest soup) from their rocky cliffs. Around  15km from Ha Tien and reachable by small boat, Hon Giang Island has a wonderful, secluded beach.

Nghe Island, near Hon Chong, is a  nice  pilgrimage  spot for Buddhists. The island consists of  a cave pagoda (Chua Hang) near  a big  statue of Quan The Am Bo Tat, which faces out to sea. Boats moored near Hon Chong’s cave pagoda will set you back  for around US$150.

Hon Chong
You’ll  pass Khmer pagodas, Cao Dai temples, grandiose churches and karst outcrops heading to Hon Chong, home to photogenic stone grottoes and the best  stretch of sand on the delta’s mainland. Unfortunately, a permanent cloud of discharge from a cement factory can blight the otherwise  scenic views. Beyond the beach, the main draw is  an impressive  Buddhist cave shrine.

After  passing through the scrappy village, the road rounds a headland and follows Duong Beach (Bai Duong) for 3km. An entrance fee is charged only at the far end of the beach (per person/car 5000/10,000d),  where there are  several food  stalls, karaoke bars, and pigs and chickens wandering around. From the beach you  can see many rocky remnants of Father and Son Isle (Hon Phu Tu), many  hundred metres offshore. It was  said to be  shaped like a father embracing his son,  but the father was washed away in 2006. Boats can be  hired at the shore to row out for a closer look at the orphan remains.

You need to walk across  the market to reach the cave pagoda (Chua Hang), which is located  against the base of a stony headland. The entry to the cave including  Hai Son Tu (Sea Mountain Temple) is inside the pagoda. Travellers  light incense and offer prayers here before entering the cool grotto itself, whose entrance is  situated  behind the altar. Inside are statues of Sakyamuni, Quan The Am Bo Tat and small cabinets enclosing green glass Buddhas. Mind your head on the low-hanging rock roof of the cave leading to the beach. The pagoda is swamped with pilgrims 15 days before and one month after Tet, as  another deluge of worshippers arrives in March and April.


Sleeping & Eating

Green Hill Guesthouse GUEST HOUSE $
(077-385 4369; r 500,000d) In an  imposing villa on the northern headland of Duong Beach, this well-maintained and  friendly, family-run  spot  has many large rooms , including the room of choice on the top floor.

Hontrem Resort RESORT HOTEL $$
(077-385 4331; ctycpdulichkg@vnn.vn; r US$60) The best  place in Hon Chong by a stretch, Hontrem is draped over a hillock to  the end of the main strip. The hexagonal bungalows are delightfully  set overlooking the sea and consist of  a large bed with light linen and generous baths. They even feature safes for valuables. The gardens are well kept and there’s a  reputable restaurant overlooking the beach. Breakfast included.

Tan Phat RESTAURANT $
(mains 30,000-150,000d;  7am-10pm) On Hon Chong’s main road, a kilometre or so before Duong Beach, this seafood restaurant  looks like a tumbledown shack from the outside, but  serveswonderful dishes  and  amazing sea views.

Getting There & Away

Hon Chong is 32km from Ha Tien to  Rach Gia. The access road branches off the Rach Gia–Ha Tien highway at the small town of Ba Hon. Buses can  drop you off at Ba Hon, from where you can  hire a motorbike to  keep on the journey on to Hon Chong (around 70,000d to 80,000d). A motorbike from Ha Tien will  costabout  200,000d return.

Tuc Dup Hill
Because of its network of connecting caves, Tuc Dup Hill (216m) stood as a strategic base of operations during the American War. Tuc dup is Khmer for ‘water runs at night’ and it is also called locally as ‘Two Million Dollar Hill’, in reference to the amount of money the Americans sank into securing it.

This is a  place of historical interest but there isn’t much  to see. You’ll cross  near it if you’re taking the back road through Ba Chuc to Chau Doc.

Ba Chuc
Ba Chuc’s Bone Pagoda stands for  as a  shocking  reminder of the horrors  perpetrated by the Khmer Rouge. Between the year 1975 and 1978 Khmer Rouge soldiers regularly crossed the border into Vietnam and slaughtered innocent civilians. Over the border, things were  even worse,  where nearly two million Cambodians were killed during the period of Pol Pot’s Democratic Kampuchea regime.
Between the period of  12 April and 30 April 1978, the Khmer Rouge killed 3157 people at Ba Chuc. Only two people are known to have survived. A lot of  victims were tortured to death. The Vietnamese government might have had other motives for invadingCambodia at the end of 1978, but certainly outrage at the Ba Chuc massacre was a main  justification.

Undergoing reconstruction at the time of research, the Bone Pagoda has a common grave  housing the skulls and bones of more than 1100 victims. At the time of writing, the skulls were exhibited  in a small building nearby, separated  by age group (including the minute skulls of toddlers and babies). There is still some blood on the walls above the floor of the Phi Lai Tu temple across the way.

Ba Chuc is  situated  close to the Cambodian border; to  reach it,  follow the road that runs along the canal from Ha Tien to Chau Doc. Turn off this  main road onto Hwy 3T and follow it for 4km.
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