Cao Lanh
A newish town carved from the forests and swamps of the Mekong Delta region, Cao Lanh is big for business, but draws few tourists.
Landscape
Dong Thap Museum MUSEUM
(226 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; 7-11.30am & 1.30-5pm) The Dong Thap Museum is one of the Mekong’s best museums, in spite of having no English captions. The ground floor exhibits an anthropological history of Dong Thap province, with displays of equipment , sculpture, models of traditional houses and some species of animals and pickled fish. Upstairs is dedicated to war history and Ho Chi Minh.
War Martyrs Monument
On the eastern edge of town off Hwy 30, the War Memorial (Dai Liet Si) is Cao Lanh’s most remarkable landmark, a sculpture featuring a large white concrete statue of a decorated soldier holding flowers in front of a stylised star. The rear of the statue is demonstrated with storks, a sign of the Mekong.
Within the grounds are the tombs of 3112 VC who died fighting in the American War.
Tomb of Nguyen Sinh Sac PARK
(Lang Cu Nguyen Sinh Sac; off Ð Pham Huu Lau; car parking 6000d) The tomb of Ho Chi Minh’s father, Nguyen Sinh Sac (1862–1929), is the centrepiece of a lovely 9.6-hectare park and model heritage village. The tomb itself is located under a shell-shaped shrine set behind a star-shaped lotus pond.
Even though various plaques (in Vietnamese) and tourist pamphlets extol Nguyen Sinh Sac as a great revolutionary, scarce evidence reveals that he was involved in the anti colonial struggle against the French. Near the shrine is a small museum devoted to Ho Chi Minh consisting mainly of photographs with Vietnamese captions.
The complex is located at the southwest approach to town; turn right after Hoa Long Pagoda and follow the fence around until you get to the entrance.
Sleeping
Hoa Anh HOTEL $
(067-224 0567; hoaanhhotel@yahoo.com.vn; 40 Ð Ly Tu Trong; r from 210,000d) For 210,000d you’ll get a clean , small double with a smallish bathroom at this fresh-faced hotel near the bus station. The two-bed rooms are large , while the pricier rooms are possible to fit a family.
Xuan Mai Hotel $
(067-385 2852; 33 Ð Le Qui Don; r 200,000-300,000d) A large restaurant, massage parlour and hotel mixed into one, this represents good value, with big but rather tacky rooms. Located behind the post office; rates include breakfast. No lift.
Nha Khach Dong Thap HOTEL $
(067-387 2670; 48 Ð Ly Thuong Kiet; r 350,000-1,000,000d) A Communist Party special, with large, airy, nice rooms, a reception dripping in marble, and corridors wide enough for you to take a jeep. Nevertheless , little English can be spoken and it has an institutionalised feel.
Song Tra Hotel$$
( 067-385 2624; 178 Ð Nguyen Hue; r US$19-35, ste US$50) The exterior is clunky but rooms are in quite intelligent shape, with large windows, satellite TV, a minibar and hot water. Staff are friendlier than those in most other state-run places.
Eating
Cao Lanh is well-known for rice-field rats, in Vietnamese we call chuot dong , so come with room in your stomach to sample the local speciality. At the very least, it’ll make a great story back home.
Ngoc Lan VIETNAMESE $
(210 Ɖ Nguyen Hue; dishes from 35,000d; 8am-9pm) The ‘Magnolia’ is a cheerful and inviting choice, with fresh and tasty pot-cooked pork (35,000d) and mixture of vegetable soup (80,000d). It’s nice with a red-and-green LED sign at night.
A Chau VIETNAMESE $
(067-385 2202; 42 Ð Ly Thuong Kiet; mains 20,000-70,000d) Shut for a refurb at the time of writing, this eatery usually has tasty banh xeo (fried pancakes, which you roll up and dip in fish sauce) as a speciality.
Information
Dong Thap Tourist (067-387 3026; www.dongthaptourist.com; 2 Ð Doc Binh Kieu; 7-11.30am & 1.30-5pm) A remarkably friendly, helpful outfit that can hire a boat and other tours visiting other places . It also has a branch ( 067-391 8487) at My Hiep village.
Post Office (85 Ð Nguyen Hue) Internet access available.
Getting There & Around
Cao Lanh Bus Station (Ben Xe Cao Lanh; 71/1 Ð Ly Thuong Kiet) is convenientlysituated right in the center of town, with services to HCMC (65,000d), Sa Dec (15,000d), Vinh Long (17,000d), My Tho (30,000d), Tra Vinh (49,000d), Can Tho(45,000d), Soc Trang (55,000d), Vung Tau (112,000d) and Ca Mau (85,000d).
Sights around Cao Lanh will be the best if you visit by river. Though you are able to arrange something privately with boat owners, it’s easier for you – although slightly more expensive – to deal with Dong Thap Tourist. Plan on about $30 for a half-day boat tour.
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